원정 개요

BC at Chhukung
C1 on S Face of Lhotse/Lhotse Shar (Polish autumn 1989 C2)
High point on South Face.

Batard went immediately to acclimatize on Lhotse S Face because Polish autumn expedition's ropes went there and in perfect condition. Tents were still there at C2 (C3 and C4 tents were collapsed and unusable). Started up face on 26th Nov and went directly from Chhukung to 6250m on face and back to BC same day. 27th at BC for rest. 28th afternoon went to Polish C2 at 6200m and slept there. 29th up to 7000m and back to BC same day. Decided to wait for Profit: too dangerous to climb alone on direct route (too dangerous for Batard) and to use Polish route too easy with Polish ropes in place. Profit wanted to climb Polish route, Batard would also and go faster than he. If Profit going top direct route, Batard not interested in climbing with him because Profit slower and it would wear carrying too much gear and summit not possible. Profit, who did not invite Batard to join him, said he was not interested in Polish route. They met at Namche on 1st Dec and Batard did not return to Chhukung; abandoned idea of climb. Batard cannot do what Beghin or Messner (or Kukuczka) can do: climb slowly steadily with heavy load; Batard can only go "very high and very quick."

Batard declared he was not interested in following the Polish autumn 1989 route and using their ropes but only in making his own new route more directly to the summit than the Poles line. But he found his direct line too dangerous for a his kind of solo bid and abandoned his attempt after having reached a high point of 7000m in only two days climb. "I cannot do what Beghin or Messner can do, climb alone slowly, steadily with a heavy loads; I can only go very light and very quick." He left the mountain before Profit and Lucas began their climb.