원정 개요

C2 (about 7200m is not correct).

Lost 2 tents in C2 and some gear end of April in very strong winds. Left C2 for top at 1:00 am NST (were 4 Spanish policemen, Subias, Garrido, Boudes, Sanjuan and Jangmu Sherpa); by 5:30 am extremely wind and cold. At 2:00 or 3:00 am Boudes going too slowly and turned back and Jangmu with her. Garrido and Sanjuan (and 1 policeman Rivero) stopped at 5:30 am in empty tent (of 2 Spaniards and Argentinian) until 8:30 am expecting wind to stop at 8:30 am as had day before and that was correct. From C3 did not take shortcut direct route to top but usual zigzag line (next time he will take direct lines because time they took made them very late at top). Got to top 6:00 pm, last people to top that day. Garrido doesn't know why so slow (our policeman with them). Returned to C2 with no problem ("we were lucky but it is no good, too risky") at 3:00 am of 6 May. Down to ABC same day.