원정 개요

C2 on East Face
High point on SE Face.

25th Dec all Koreans in C2 with high-altitude headache so high climbers were Ang Lhakpa and Ang Tshering, only were above C2 making route to C3 to be pitched at 7900m. Ang Tshering reached 7600m and Ang Lhakpa fell 200m from 7800m down face at 3:20 pm (Ang Tshering saw him fall and came to rest). Avalanche took away C2 tent in which there was no one because climbers were out trying to reach Ang Lhakpa but then big snow avalanching carried away body and it not found. After his death, all Sherpas refused to climb any more and members therefore also abandoned climb. Had planned Sherpas would stock C3 and then an alpine-style summit bid from C3 by 3 Koreans and Ang Lhakpa. Team never intended to attempt SW Face and did not do so.

Belgians suggested 2 teams climb together on 18th Dec but Koreans they talked to did not understand and did not agree. Belgians cut fixed ropes and seized new rope and this made Sherpas angry (Koreans also angry) and Sherpas attacked Belgians; Koreans did not join fight but separated Sherpas and Belgians (Lee was not at camp where fight took place).

This team and Belgian-French party climbed on SE Face to the right of normal line used successfully by Austrian-German team in 1978. Highest point reached 7800m was gained by Ang Lhakpa Sherpa alone; he then fell 200m and a big snow avalanche immediately carried away his body. Other Sherpas refused to continue climb, and Koreans too gave up.