원정 개요

ABC as same as others,

Climbed to C1 on 27th April to acclimatize, others down to ABC after having reached near to C2 site. Down to ABC on 27th. 26th April fierce wind blew down 15 tents at C2. On 28th set up intermediate camps at 5900m. About a week's rest at ABC and on 6 May up to C1, to C2 on 7 May, 8th to C3. 9 May from C2 by Gota and Yuichiro Miura and 4 Sherpas at 3:30 am (NST) and on top 9:30 am by Miuras and Sherpas and down to C2 to sleep sleep.

2nd summit team: Kato, Murata, Higashi and 3 Sherpas. Left C3 10 May at 3:00 am, on top 9:45 am and slept C2.

Oxygen used only by Japanese, all members for sleeping in C2 and C3 and climbing C2 to C3 and C3 to top and down to C2. Fixed rope 100m going to 8000m altitude; elsewhere used rope in place. 9 May saw Everest, et al (no clouds); 10 May cloudy so saw nothing beyond 6-7m, but saw on top some flags.