원정 개요

BC near lake southwest of West Col
C1 just over top of West Col
C2 at bottom of SE Ridge
High point at 6750m at SE Ridge.

25 April summit bid from C2 by Dinsdale, Mann, Muir, Trommsdorff and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa at 4:00 am (wanted to leave earlier but also did not want to get to technical ground starting at 6500m before could use it in daylight). An hour across glacier to actual start of ridge in one foot fresh snow and then up ridge till 8:00 am where ridge was crossed by wide crevasse barrier. To overcome this barrier would have had to go over to steep South Face, where slab avalanche danger too great. Crevasse 30 feet wide with overhanging lip; so with risk too great, decide to abandon climb. Same day down to BC, clearing camps on descent.

Fixed 170m to West Col and start of technical part on mountain fixed 30m.