원정 개요

Expedition flew KTM-Pokhara-Jomsom and arrived Jomsom 28 June. They then split into two teams, one to climb Arniko Chuli and the other for Saribung.

Arniko team, consisting of Ohnishi, Ang Phurba Sherpa and his wife, Mrs Dikki Sherpa, left Jomsom on their approach march on 3 July.

Approach: north to Dhagarjung, northwest to Sangda, Kiraphalek Khola, Nalkham Khola to base camp at north end of Khola. Arrived base camp 8 July.

Climb: From base camp (5562m, just south of Tibetan border), on 9 July went up to Chanagor Bhajang (Pass) at 5665m on the border and returned to base. On 10 July the three left base at 8:55 am, reached the pass at 9:30 am, left the pass at 9:45 am and climbed the West Ridge, which runs up the border, to the summit, which they reached between 10:50 and 12:00 am, and back to base camp at 12:55 pm. Their rock ridge presented no technical difficulties; it was an "easy walk."

Trek away from base camp: left base camp on 11 July for Saribung base camp. Trekked down Nalkham Khola to Ghami Khola, south-southeast along Ghami Khola to Ghami village, northeast to Chharang village, east to Yara village and Luri Gompa, south southeast to Ghuma Thati, and finally southeast to Saribung base camp. Arrived at Saribung base on 17 July.

Saribung team consisted of Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi as climbers with Tul Bahadur Tamang accompanying them to base camp but to do no climbing. They left Jomsom on 29 June.

Approach march: north and east via Chuksang (Chhusang), Tange and Yara villages, then southeast via Luri Gompa, Guma Thati to Nakkali Damodar Kunda base camp at 5375m north-northeast of the mountain. Arrived at base camp on 12 July.

Climb: on 14 July moved to high camp at 5700m south of base. On 17th July Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi attempted to climb Saribung and went up northwest snow slope; reached col at 6068m (according to GPS - Nepalese government's map gives altitude as 6042m), from where their route ascended North Ridge. But now they were in a white-out, so instead of climbing further, they turned around and retreated all the way to base camp the same day. Saribung climb was now abandoned.

Trek away from base camp: 18 July this team plus Arniko Chuli team left base camp on 18 July to returned to Jomsom. Trekked via Yara, Tange, Chuksang (Chhusang). Reached Jomsom 22 July.

Note: Official government altitudes for the two mountains are 6039m for Arniko Chuli and 6346m for Saribung. Ohnishi's GPS measurements gave altitudes of 6034m and 6328m, respectively.

Saribung attempt by Mrs Kobayashi and Okuda July 17 to Col at 6068m then white-out and descended. Were on northwest slope. From Col would have ascended North Ridge. Tul Bahadur Tamang went with them to BC but did no climbing.