원정 개요

From 23 April long stretches of wind and snowfall, hence delay in occupying C3. At BC had one foot snow. 28 April such fierce wind in night, BC tents battered and tarpoulin blown off: had to put rocks in tents to hold them down; toilet tent blown away. On 5 May when summit party going to C3, stones were falling when they about 7000m and Sherpas got hit on feet (not seriously). 5 May 23:00 out for top by 4 members and 3 Sherpas, all of whom summited, the Sherpas having gone from ABC to C3 earlier that day and 3 members from C1 to C3. All on top about 7:20 am in clear windless morning and could see Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhare. Down to C3 2:30 pm and to BC 7 May.

First summit bid (unsuccessful): climbers divided into 2 teams of 9 members in one and 8 in the other. 1st team set out for top on 3 May at 3:30 am in slightly windy weather, fixing rope in a few critical places as they went, while 2nd team up from C2 to C3. But when 2nd team was near C3, 1st group radioed them that they would be unable to descend to C2, as planned and not enough room in C3 for both teams, 1st group returned to C2. 1st group encountered strong wind and snow falling resulting in white-out, so they turned back at 7000m, to stay in C3 that night. During this attempt, Phurba Jangbu's toes very badly frostbitten and some will have to be amputated; Surjeet Singh's nose frostbitten but will heal; Dendi Sherpa's cheek suffered very slight frostbite (really chilblain) but also will be Ok. Temperature was -40 to -50 degrees.


Email from M. S. Chauhan - 16 July 2009

Following members were with me on that summit attempt: Maj S. P. Malik, Palden Giacho, Surjit Singh, Amar Prakash, Neel Chand, C Angchuk along with four Sherpas: Dawa Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Rinzi Sherpa and Dawa. I along with, Neel Chand, Surjit Singh, Amar Prakash and C Angchuk reached up to 8009m. After staying below the summit (approx 50-70m) for one hour plus we turned back to C3 at 13:30 and reached there by 19:30 hours on 3 May 2002.


Email from M. S. Chauhan - July 30 2009

S. P. Malik was not keeping well, so when he reached half way he was almost one hour behind all of us. Seeing his progress leader asked Giacho to turn back and accompany S. P. Malik down to C3.

They must have reached up to approximately 7600m and moved back at about 11 am. We all turned back due to heavy winds snow storm and white-out condition.


Summit Sherpas:
Pasang Rinji, Kharikhola, 25, Everest with Indians 24/5/01
Lhakpa Thudu (aka Lhakpa Thundu), Pangboche, Ev 23/5/02
Tashi Dorje (aka Ang Tashi), Cho Oyu X2, 31 yrs old