원정 개요

BC at Lhonak (part time occupied village)
ABC at west of Tsisima Peak (for climb of unnamed peak)
C1 at SSW of Tengkoma (for climb of Tengkoma).

30 Oct all trekked north from Lhonak along Lhonak Glacier and made camp beside glacier at 5200m. 31st camped at 5400m also beside glacier. 1st Nov Lidstone, Garrett and Schone returned to Lhonak. 2 Nov McGuinness and Vivequin moved on north to 5560m where made camp for climbs in that area; north to Paso Chabuk La (6150m) into Tibet, which hasn't been used for many years; and returned to camp same day. 3 Nov McGuinness and Lobsang from Ladakh (Tibetan) at 9:00 am left camp (5560m) and climbed/scrambled on rock to 6100m on southwest side of on unnamed peak 6225m and on top at 12:00 noon and returned to camp at 1:30 pm, went south to camp at 5200m. 4th to Lhonak and there joined other three members.

6th all fine and from Lhonak to Tengkoma and camped at 5300m. SSW of summit, 400m from bottom of mountain at place where grass stops and rock begins. 7th to top by 4 members, but Lidstone turned back at 5900m because he was too slow. 4 got to top at 12:30 pm (left camp 6:30 am and back to camp at 4:00 pm). Most of climb was essentially scrambling on loose dangerous [rock] through 2 gullies; rest 150m crevasses on South Ridge, then climbed on snow; summit again rock and had 3 cairns on it. Slept 7th at 5300m camp. 8th to Lhonak and on southwest to Khenbacen (a grazing area) at 4100m and camped there. 9th eastwards in Khumbhakarna/Jannu glacier to look at possibility of climbing Merra Peak, northwest of Jannu's North Face. 3 members to Ghunsa while McGuinness and Vivequin camped on north side of glacier where Jannu North Face expeditions make BC. Discouraged from attempting to climb Merra by presence of 2 adult snow leopards and cubs. 10th stayed at this camp at 4500m (worried about leopard attack if climbed and surprised to see humans then). 11th abandoned idea of climbing Merra and went south to Ghunsa.

This was Schone's 2nd ascent (he had 3-man team in Aut 2000).