원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 at rock and grass south of southern arm of Kangch Glacier.

21 Oct Egarter to top of "Mouse" [about 6200m], 22nd Lackner and Pallasmann to top of "Mouse" and Pallasmann went on diagonally up SE Face to 6300m and back to Mouse and from there watched others climbed to "Gratkopf" at 6600m. Egarter, Gfreiner, Koestenbaumer and Danu and Muktu Sherpas started up steepening section (55-degrees) SE Face to East Ridge at 6630m with powder snow up to waist on steep rock. Gfreiner and Koestenbaumer up East Ridge: now no place for belays. Everybody down to C1 (C2 never slept in). Now not possible to mount another attack because they had only one gas stove left and 1 member developed pulmonary edema at 5900m. Climb now finished at Ramtang.

On 25 Oct Egarter and Gfreiner from Pangpema and ascended to 6225m subsidiary peak of Drohmo.

Pallasmann left BC on 24th with Perwein, whose oxygen supply finished; others left 26th and all met in Ghunsa.