원정 개요

ABC at just below glacier
C1 on glacier
C2 on East face col between C3 and C4.

From ABC detoured icefall. From C2 up face of 60-65 degree starting 3:00 am on 13 Oct heading for Raksha Urai IV (6628m according to Leomann map printed in UK). Had ice on this face to 6480m at 4:00 pm and turned back where found bad snow with no possible anchor points; took 9 hours rapelling down to C2 to at 1:00 am of 14th. Slept in C2 that night. Climb finished: no place for a C3 on face to make final attempt in shorter time and perhaps traverse to right of their routes.

In another autumn season would go directly to Col if more snow on face. 2 members, Godfrey and De Bank, went to look at west side of mountain but found it completely unapproachable for porters without ropes and climbing; did not see west side mountain from the distance they went towards it.


Website: see www.virginsummits.org for further information by team.