원정 개요

BC near others
C1 at top of rib (normal site)
High point at 6400m just below (100 m) below Col.

Had agreement with Iranian leader that Iranian Sherpas would fix ropes above to top of ropes fixed by the team near C2, but leader broke agreement and all went down to BC instead. Badly underequipped for rope to fix; fixed to 6400m and ran out of rope. Climb over with no rope, little time. Half meter of snowfall put climb back a few days (fell on 3 Oct). Avalanching every day, but this expedition untouched.