원정 개요

BC at 5300m near lake of Gorak Shep.

Did not stay in normal C2 site because too dangerous from avalanches so went from C2 to C3 - "it was a long day" between C1 and C3. Took 9 hours with lunch at tents (never occupied) at C2 site. Sherpas had problem opening 1 route just before C2 to fix rope on different traverse to C2 site, where they pitched 2 tents on 11 Oct. Summit party spent 2 nights in C3 to acclimatize and then on 20 Oct left C3 at 5:00 pm; 2 places with 90-degree ice and Sherpas at first thought women could not manage three difficult places but where woman insisted, Sherpas fixed ropes and all 7 went to top at 2:40 pm and back to C3. "Perfect" weather on summit day. Had one experienced Iranian in summit party; had wanted such a climber on expedition, since this was women's first Himalayan experience.

Summit party reached top together in single file in this order: Sonam Dendu Sherpa, Bahrain, Nazari, Sadegh, Cheshmeh with Sherpas Tenzing and Mingma in between the others.

Sinaki reached C3 on 18th but mild altitude sickness and down on 19th; Moghaddam also to C3 but not very strong so down on 19th.

Asiabanhamadani stayed in BC throughout the climb (he was authorities escort/chaperon/watcher); leader to C1 only.