원정 개요

BC at normal site
C2 at 200m below North Col
C3 on summit plateau - end of plateau.

1st group for summit push from C3 at 7:00 am and reached top 2:00-4:00 pm (2:00 pm by Paldan Namgyal and Rahar Bahadur Tamang with Kurahashi; 2:30 Saito, 3:00 Okuba; 3:00 Phinzo).

11th 2nd group to C3: Kondo, Ueno, Kuribara and Tika Gurung. Night of 10th non-stop very strong wind and could not move up from C3 because of wind on 11th and slept in C3; "our hopes crushed" and 12th decided to abandon climb. So on 12th 2nd attack party descended from C3: Kuribara had altitude sickness (cerebral) and descended very slowly; Kondo went down with him, both clipped to fixed rope (Kondo had to unclip and reclip on rope for him); usually C3 to BC in one day easily done but Kuribara's altitude sickness and at dark tried to biv above North Col but Kuribara slipped 200m, lost a crampon but stopped; Gurung had by now gone below C2. 12:00 now and Ueno in North Col so Kudo only one with Kuribara, who descended slowly but in dark they lost route and Kubihara stopped, refused to go further on his feet and slowly down on his back and side slipping. Tika came up to Kubihara and Kondo but he went back down alone with baggage, fearing frostbite. 13th at 7:00 am Kurahashi joined them with oxygen at biv point almost 7000m. Gave oxygen to Kubihara and 2 men carried Kubihara to 6600m temporary camp made by Ueno, where Kuribara died at 2:40 pm and body put into crevasse at 6350m. Kurahashi and Tika to BC that night, while Kondo and Ueno slept. 16th to C1 and helicopter from C1 to KTM. Ueno had frostbite in 1 finger and slight frostbite in 2 and Kondo 2 slightly frostbitten fingers.

Sherpas:
Phinzo, Khumjung, Everest 5/2000
Palden Namgye/Namgyal, Phortse, Ev 5/2000 with Phinzo
Rahar Bahadur Tamang, 34, Deusa, Solu, 1st 8000er


Czech Manaslu leader Kubicek - 30 Oct 2001

When Czechs arrived after Japanese, Japan Leader said Czechs must contribute 1000m rope to be fixed and $2400 for the cost of fixing it or Czechs could not use "their route" and their rope. The two expeditions liaison officers talked together and polite LO with Japanese said Czechs could use Japanese route and Japanese ropes; this was on 6th Oct and Czechs did climb the route. Czechs had brought only 300m of rope and no dollars with them.