원정 개요

Too much snow and wind and problem with Japanese expedition, who not were willing to cooperate. Asked Czechs to provide 1000m and $2400 but Czechs had only 300m of rope and no dollars. So Japanese said Czechs couldn't use their "Japanese" route. 2 expedition liaison officers talked together and polite Japanese LO said Czechs could use "Japanese route" and ropes (this was on 6 Oct and Czechs did climb route). Now snow and very strong winds, but got to C2 on 16 Oct. 17th down to BC to rest. 19 Oct up to C1 and 20th to C2. 21st found glaciers above was not safe to attempt; Lhakpa Dorje and Kalamaznik went up onto glacier to 6600m and found glacier too unstable to go higher safely, so all down to BC that day and climb finished.