한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

40th Anniversary JAC-Tokai Winter Lhotse South Face Exp 2001

Lhotse · 2001 · 겨울 (4) · Japan

원정 개요

BC north of Island Peak
C1 on South Face
C2 on South Face
High point on South Face.

In Nov made route to C1 but had ice blocks and rock falls, very dangerous, so could not make C1 at 6400m, so made camp at 5900m instead. Very strong winds on 18th and 19th Dec and so gave up. Tanabe slept in C2 both nights. 20th Tanabe climbed to 7300m but could go no higher with such winds and decided to stop expedition. Face is about 3300m high.

All 5 members and 8 Sherpas used oxygen sleeping in C2; above C2 members and Sherpas used above C2 on 18th Tanabe and 2 Sherpas used it (Sherpas only in morning when very cold); Tobita used in BC when sick.

4 Japanese hit by rock fall; some Sherpas also. Above C1 to C2 dangerous from rock fall after 8:30 am so Sherpas started climbing at midnight and Japanese at 4:00 am. Below 7000m not so cold, but at C2 -30 to -35 degrees. Not difficult technically.

Route was near 1981 Yugoslav route.

  • 내부 원정 ID3950
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT01401
  • 대장Osamu Tanabe
  • 루트 (Route)S Face
  • 최고 도달고도7600m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Osamu TanabeJapanLeader-사용-
Masamiki TakineJapanDeputy Leader-사용-
Yasuhiro HanataniJapanClimber-사용-
Otani HisaoJapanClimber-사용-
Manabu MiyoshiJapanClimber-사용-
Mikio SuzukiJapanClimber---
Kazuo TobitaJapanClimber-사용-
Mingma Tshering/Tsiri SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Nima Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-

출처·참고문헌

Tanabe, Osamu · 2001 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Lhotse South Face in WinterTanabe, Osamu · 2001 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
Lhotse South Face in WinterTanabe, Osamu · 2001 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAN
Lhotse South Face in Winter 2001Tanabe, Osamu · 2001 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Lhotse South Face in Winter 2001Tanabe, Osamu · 2001 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200241600/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Lhotse-South-Face-Winter-Attempt · 2001 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/58/18/expeditions-and-notes-58/ · 2001 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol2/Lhotse.pdf · 2001 · 웹사이트 (5) ·