원정 개요

BC at normal site
High point at flat place between 2 sections of icefall.

Snowed and rained for 72 hrs when arrived at BC. Profit's fixed ropes under 1m fresh snow: "crazy" says Lukie. To reach start of climb, must go through chest deep snow with hard crust after strong winds began. Were only 2 men climbers: Cousteix had cereberal edema and Beulne stayed with him at Marpha; they arrived at BC late. Doctor BC only, so only 2 men to break trail.

At this time of year need skies. On 3rd Dec Besson and Lukie tried to go up and went only into icefall; to reach col with only 2 men in such snow conditions and new snowfall impossible. Ridge above N Col in good condition. Then porters to BC had had to wait 5 days at BC and on this retreat from BC one porter killed by avalanche off W Face on 28th Nov. They used much food at BC; sent cook and kitchen boy to Marpha for more supplies; they got lost trying to find French Pass; had to sleep out and Naike's feet froze.

Beulne and Cousteix arrived in Nepal late and flew to Jomsom, Cousteix sick at Marpha; arrived BC 2 Dec (Beulne) and 8th Dec (Cousteix). Expedition left BC 9th Dec and had trouble getting out in deep snow.

Only two members did any climbing on Dhaulagiri, for one member developed serious altitude sickness and another stayed at base camp with him. So with no climbing Sherpas they were too weak a party to break trail through chest-deep snow in a prolonged period of new snowfall. The NE Ridge above the North Col appeared to be in good condition, but it was impossible for only two men to even reach the col in such snow conditions. (It might have helped if they had brought skis).

The two Dhaulagiri climbers, Besson and Lukie, plus Beulne, who had been with the sick man, did go over to nearby Mt. Tukuche and successfully scaled it by its NE Ridge.