원정 개요

BC on Hinku Nup Glacier just NE of junction with Kangtega Glacier
Biv on East Pillar
Biv on East Pillar
Biv on S Face.

North Face mountain attempted because too much snow. First acclimatized up Kangtega Glacier on normal route to 6000m, where left small tent for descent. Glacier to Profit's base camp very difficult with many stones (and dangerous when lot of snow). On 26 Nov went around to see North Face and saw too much snow and decided to climb instead East Pillar and returned to BC 26th. 28th to normal route for acclimatization and 29th to BC. 2nd Dec to face. Biv at 6000m on 2nd Dec, 3rd biv at 6300m. Pillar very safe after small gully at 5300m, very dangerous seracs above. 4th arrived on shoulder at 6400m and now most difficult part finished: rock steep (need special rock shoes) and mixed rock and ice in same places. Now decided easy to traverse to normal route. Traversed to South Face to 6000m at biv left of couloir and slept there. 5th to summit by normal route on South Face. East Pillar stopped at shoulder and above dangerous seracs. From summit down to BC same day 8:00 pm in full moon. Last day, 5th very strong wind all day. Had left biv at 6000m at 8:00 am for top, on top at 2:00 pm.