원정 개요

BC just above (southeast of) Meta village 3600m
C1 due east of Meta village
C2 snow slope on west side.

At 5900m found previous teams camp; above C1 to this place till on rock with short snow couloir in middle but more rocks above it and finally snow slope on west side of mountain. Above C2 45 degrees to ridge of ice and hard snow. Monterisi left C2 alone (Rohart supposed to go up too, but had terrible headache) at 9:00 am and on top 1:30 pm in mostly clear weather with occasional clouds drifting from Annapurnas. Down to C1 that night. Rohart returned to C2; C3 on 14th.

On 15th Vincent and Phu Dorje up from C2 for top but at only 40m above C2, Vincent fell. Phu Dorje had one broken arm and other twisted arm. Rohart aborted his summit plans and went to help them. Phu Dorje went alone to to BC while Rohart escorted Vincent towards C1. Rohart went up to C2 to bring down gear while French escorted to BC. Monterisi went on Marshyangdi River to telephone KTM for evacuation helicopter, then back to Meta.

Route was West Face, but north of normal, previous route and reached NW Ridge below normal route.

Van den Boussche and Van Dierendonck went to C1 for one night only and left expedition 11 Oct. Van Dierendonck had bad headache and both decided to stop.