원정 개요

BC at 6000m above Meta, due east of Meta
C1 on slope above BC
C2 on SW Face.

From C1 to C2 traversed right and then up left on easy ridge without crevasses to SW Face. From C2 on SW Face on up face to West Ridge at about 6600m and then right (north[?]) along West Ridge to top. All 4 members slept in C2 nights of 7th and 8th. On 9th Wagnon went to top alone for summit bid while, others three went down, not having acclimatized well. Wagnon took 3-1/2 hours to top at 1:30 pm when was cloudy (very warm weather). All in BC night of 9th.

All 4 up from BC on 11 Oct by McIntyre and Saugat, who slept in C1; all up to C2 on 12th. On 13th Wagnon up again with Sauget; Wagnon slept on top be sure in morning of 14th to get good pictures. Graziani stayed in C2 to find whether McIntyre had recovered from headcold and could go to top on 15th, but she had not so down to BC. Graziani went to the top himself on the 14th.