원정 개요

C1 at 7000m at North Col
C2 at 7800m at North Ridge.

Some members had acclimatization climb in Ladakh. After C3 23rd down to BC for rest intending to push to C3 at 8300m and on to top end of Sept. Left BC 29 Sept: 2 up, Markos and Nedeckz; 30 Sept Eross, Mecs, Ugyan and Keresztesi (the main summit team) and Borszaki and Foldes to ABC, arrived ABC 1 Oct. Gardos (the doctor), Kertesz and Bradacs on 1 Oct up and at ABC on 2 Oct. Now bad weather (snowfall). Markos and Nedeckz went to C1 3 Oct; 4th tried to go higher but snow sent them back to ABC. 4th Oct Eross, Keresztesi, Foldes and Borszeki to C1 and 5th ABC because much snow and avalanching. Down to BC 8 Oct. Now Foldes and Borszeki left expedition on 10 Oct. 11 Oct Gardos and Kertesz up from BC with Keresztesi, already at ABC in last 1-2 days to make trail as high as possible, to put gear at C3 site. 12 Oct summiters Eross, Mecs, Ugyan and Bradacs from BC and arrived in ABC 13 Oct. Strong wind and no one went above ABC. Now all members in ABC on 13th. 14th Gardos and Keresztesi to North Col on icy surface and ropes buried under snow and slept there but windy and cloudy. 15th in Col camp and all others in ABC. 16th both up to C2, while very windy and slept in C2. 17th 4 from ABC towards Col; Markos, Eross and Mecs did reach Col but very strong wind; slept in Col and waited for Gardos and Keresztesi in C2 to join others in C1; 2 pm (Chinese Time) radioed from C2 starting down and those in C1 went to help them descend but did not see them, but at Col very strong wind in which could not stand up, went down to Col camp on hands and knees. 9:00 pm Mecs saw Keresztesi 50m away and he reached camp, very tired and face covered down. Keresztesi realized Gardos not coming down, Keresztesi started up again, 20m up saw Gardos when signalled he was going up. Gardos not seen again while Keresztesi returned to C1. Next day Eross and Markos up to find Gardos but in C2 no Gardos and no indication he had been in it. On 19th Gardos' body found on Rongbuk Glacier at 6700m and found new tent with him and some he tried to pitch tent and in strong wind, it blew him off like a sail. He fell 1100m; all body's bones broken, buried in crevasse. Climb finished.