원정 개요

BC at little below the usual camp site.

Oct 12 Mondinelli, Pasaban with Sherpa left C3 at 04:30 hours. About 7800m Mondinelli told Pasaban to return due to dangerous snowline/path. Pasaban and Sherpa returned to C3. Mondinelli reached summit around 11:15 hours. Stayed about half an hour for photos - it was windy. He saw a dead body at the beginning of summit ridge 3/4-meter away. Garces and Merelli started from C3 at 05:30 hours. At about 8050m they met Favre and Blanc, who advised Garces to return as it was late and windy. Garces was behind Merelli who suddenly realized that Garces was not behind him. Then Blanc told him that he saw Garces fall (it was about 7800m). Merelli stayed at C3. On 13th he tried to find the body of Garces, but there was no trace of it. Then descended to BC, Soria also descended.

The team (all members) with 2 Sherpas first attempted summit on Oct 2 but returned from 7700m due to soft snow condition.

- Soria trying to leave Kathmandu on 22
- Pasaban to leave on 24, it depends on the return of Spanish Pumori expedition
that lost 5 members
- Mondinelli and Merelli probably leave on 26.
Pasaban, Mondinelli and Merelli leaving on 26

Re Hirschbichler and Aregger summit: Soria told me that when Hirschbichler came back to BC from the climb, he wanted to felicitate her, but she told Soria not to because they did not reach the main summit.

About Japanese team: The Japanese said that their Sherpas told them that that was the summit.