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Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition to Mount Everest

Everest · 1989 · 가을 (3) · Yugoslavia

원정 개요

BC at road
ABC near point 5560m NGS map
C1 at bottom of Changtse West Ridge (near point 6080m NGS map)
C2 100m above Australian White Limbo's camp
C3 at bottom of Great Couloir.

Had an Advance C1 which was depot and rest place, but snow cave, and 100 carries to C2 as an advanced ABC, so time to build up supplies there. Rope above C1 to C2 had to be replaced every 5-6 days because of avalanching. Very dangerous route for avalanching. All 6 members who reached C3 were in avalanches. At highest point man fell 200m from high point down to C3 and reported on walkie-talkie that someone would be killed if tried to go higher. Left BC 19 Oct. Difficult to walk at BC because of wind.

  • 내부 원정 ID390
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER89303
  • 대장Darko Berljak
  • 루트 (Route)N Face (Great Couloir)
  • 최고 도달고도7800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 27명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Darko BerljakYugoslaviaLeader---
Edin AlikalficYugoslaviaClimber---
Miroslav Ambrus-KisYugoslaviaClimber---
Zdenko AnicYugoslaviaC1 Manager---
Mario BagoYugoslaviaClimber---
Velimir BarisicYugoslaviaClimber---
Drago BaruskinYugoslaviaClimber---
Janez BenkovicYugoslaviaClimber---
Kresimir CrnicYugoslaviaClimber---
Darko DularYugoslaviaClimber---
Neven FantovYugoslaviaTransport Manager---
Zeljko GobecYugoslaviaClimber---
Tin IlakovacYugoslaviaClimber---
Jerko KiriginYugoslaviaABC Manager---
Boris KovacevicYugoslaviaClimber---
Marjan KregerYugoslaviaClimber---
Ninoslav KurtaljYugoslaviaClimber---
Dubravko MarkovicYugoslaviaExp Doctor---
Berislav MokosYugoslaviaClimber---
Bozika Papes-MokosYugoslaviaClimber---
Franc (Aco) PepevnikYugoslaviaClimber---
Danko PetrinYugoslaviaClimber---
Milan RomihYugoslaviaClimber---
Branko SeparovicYugoslaviaClimber---
Miroslav (Slavko) SveticicYugoslaviaClimber---
Danilo (Dani) TicYugoslaviaClimber---
Ranko ZnidaricYugoslaviaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Berljak, Darko · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Dodiri NebaBerljak, Darko · 1989 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199030302/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·