원정 개요

BC near lake of Hongu Glacier
High point at West Col.

Two Spanish teams, one Catalan and one Basque, met in Kathmandu for first time. They decided to climb together and they combined their efforts and became one expedition.

Avalanche accident occured on west side of West Col on 9 Oct on way to take loads to C1 site; accident when trying to fix rope - were entering couloir diagonally; rope fixed on 9th to 6100m by Basque party but end of rope at Col brought them to crevasses ahead so now on 9th new line taken. Col reached by Chavaris on 8th, on 9th Col reached by Garcia, Maldonaldo, Puigpinol, Rocias, Sanchez, Coto, Cubillas, Rubio, Garcia and Sanchez.

Avalanche while Coto leading effort to make diagonal line to Col after 8-man party had gone to Col and seen route ahead not good (crevasses). Coto's right leg broken, pelvis slightly broken, arm dislocated at elbow, ribs pressed against a lung making impossible to breathe well, 2 kidneys required dialysis for 3 days in KTM hospital. Rubio cuts and bruises and bruises and leg cut and bruised also; avalanche was was snow but fall in rocks. Coto fell 300m, Garcia 250m and Sanchez 90m but not hurt on snow slope. Helicopter evacuated Coto and Rudio from glacier between BC and Col at 5700m and climb finished.