원정 개요

BC near lake of Hunku Glacier (same as others)
C1 just below West Col on east side of it
High point at 7000m at SE Ridge.

Planned to go directly to summit from C1. 2 members wanted to try for top on 17th and 2 members on 18th. On 17th Fuchs and Messner started but reached early to C2 (6700m) and turned back because of wind; returned to C1 to wait for winds to abate in for hours, but wind continued and finally same day down to BC, all now in BC.

18th Messner and Fuchs back to C1. 19th tried again for summit, reached about 7000m, then impossible to go further; too much deep soft snow and could not fix any rope; big cornices on ridge and too dangerous to go higher; were just below section of ridge.

20 Oct Wacker and Mohrs to 6800m and encountered deep snow and turned back to BC same day and climb finished.