원정 개요

BC at Sabje Khola
ABC on glacier
C1 near big rock rib ridge to top
C2 top of sharp ridge under seracs
C3 at small gully on the Dome.

Just below C2 and new knife-edge ridge was been created big glaciers or either side pressing together. Another change on mountain is a big buildup of snow and ice adding about 100m height to the feature known as the Dome. Route today, with change in glaciers, was 80m to east (left) of previous teams route. Most difficult technical section was between C3 and high point because crevasses had to be gone around difficult ice and same avalanches. Climb stopped when back up from rest at ABC, found C1's 4 tents full of vital equipment completely gone (2 more tents left in shatters); must have been swept by avalanche. Assembled enough equipment to make final push for top but turned around on 22 Sept in face of strong winds with major storm threatening and a Sherpa got serious altitude headache so decided to stop climb and 1 member got sick. Some Sherpas frightened after C1's disappearance. Every afternoon big clouds came in from south. Could have reached top if hadn't lost C2.