원정 개요

C1 at normal site (SW Ridge, slightly above British expedition)?
Biv at top of red tower
High point at West Face.

4 Dec attacked summit: all 4 members left C1 5:30 am but climbed slowly and when reached top of red tower at 6000m at 11:30, was very far to top and decided to return C1. 6th again all 4 up, and slept in biv on top of tower at 6000m. 7th at 5:45 am up towards top; when reached 6500m on West Face, was 2:00 pm; so too late to continue up, had no tent no food, so down to biv and climb finished. Now all very tired and had no tent but nylon sheet to cover for members together - in morning -21 degrees centigrade. 8th packed up C1 and down to BC. Wanted to climb alpine style with no Sherpas, so took only one week's food for climb "was really enjoyed climbing by ourselves." Route "very hard and risky." Sometimes used ropes left from last season. Reluctantly agreed that there actually was one other team, the British, also on this mountain at same time.

Nakamura wants to return to Ama Dablam; now that he knows the route, he can climb it in 5 days.


14 Dec 2001 (after Japanese interview) - Mac Mackay, British Ama Dablam leader, said his Sherpas fixed 100m of Japanese rope for the Japanese since the Japanese had no Sherpas with them.