원정 개요

BC at road
C1 on NE Ridge ("the unclimbed ridge")
C2 on N Col
C3 on buttress leading to N Ridge
High point at N Face.

Never got more than 24,000 ft on NE Ridge in 3 attempts to go up ridge but waist-deep snow and set off avalanches from 13th to 24th Sept. Kept building up supplies in C1 in Sept after having fixed rope by 12th, hoping their supplies would go on to higher camps.

Decided to abandon NE route about 25th Sept and to go to classical route with Goodwill team. By early Oct, N Ridge looked safe because winds had blown away snow but now winds unbearable. Snow was down to knee-deep; temperature very low and winds c70 mph and blew all night long.