원정 개요

4 hrs from Pangboche to start of rock of ridge. Had no fixed camps or ropes. Made ascent in one continuous push with series of bivouacs to top. Pushed up ridge on 1 Nov and first day good progress, then basically steady progress till last day to top with 600m climbed that day. 5 biv on ridge to point when West Spur joins ridge, then 3 on flat section and finally on biv on 9th at point where to North Face joins and NW Ridge at about 100m from top. "Quite technically difficult" (Scottish Grade 6). Will never be guided. Started push on 1st Nov. On top at 9:30 am in easy snow down from last biv to top. Then down to the only biv in descent at about 6200m: "football field" on very stable serac.

Meantime Chinnery and Coull 28th started on West Spur to ridge and in 3 days got to 6000m and gave up on 1-2 Nov because of bad rock (spur joins ridge at about 6100m). Hollinger and Sharpe tried same spur to same high point on 5 Nov, but "rock hadn't got any better."