원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 just below NE Col (same as other teams)
C2 on NE Ridge.
1st biv at East Face just above a section of very thin ice
2nd biv on East Face
High point on East Face.

Team first attacked NE Ridge and went up and down 3 times. Hoshino reached 7300m but only Nazuka moved up with Yamada's team and went with them to C3 at 7500m. 11 Oct Nazuka went to summit alone and got badly frostbitten fingers and left mountain while other three went to East Face.

They started up face on 12 Oct early in morning. Yamada's team watched them from C1 and saw them make 2 bivouacs. Yamada's team watched them on 14th at 10:00 am saw they were moving very slowly, very tired, "in no good condition." Yamada saw them at about 6400-6500m on face. They had only 3 days food supply with them. If they had managed to reach the NE Ridge at 7500m after completing their route on the face, they would have reached Yamada's C3 at 7500m on the ridge where there was a good supply of food for them and they would have been Ok (they had planned to leave the face at 7500m). Yamada believes they fell before they could reach the camp. Yamada left BC on 16 Oct with his team and now only Hoshino's cook remained in BC. The cook came to KTM [22-33 Oct] to report the three men had not returned and said on 18th and 19th there was much snowfall and very strong wind on the top. Yamada on 24th made aerial search by helicopter and saw no trace of them, no avalanching on the face.

Hoshino and Yamada their members belonged to one big team but Yamada's party had no intention of attempting East Face.