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BC at foot of moraine of Trupaiku Tsang Glacier

BC is at the left bank of the river at the foot of the moraine of the Trupaiku Langshisa Tsang Glacier. Route lay along the moraine on the left side of the Glacier, 5 hours walk to the foot of the NE Face of the mountain. This was the perfect site for a base camp or an advance base camp; this team established their Advance Base Camp here.


* Note:

Rest should be translated from Vertical, Sept-Oct 1999, pg with sketch map.

Jugal Himal - Urkinmang

Previously unreported from the spring season are two ascents of this little peak immediately east of Gangchempo and south of the Langshisa Glacier. From a camp at 5400m close to Tilman's Col the French guide Francois Damilano follow country woman. Martine Girod the well known Swiss climber Vincent Sprungli and Gumbu Sherpa reached the 6151m summit on the 15th May via the West Ridge. The upper crust was quite narrow and exposed involving 10 pitches up to 80 degrees and comparable with the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc. This outing provided a suitable background for Damilano and Sprungli to attempt the virgin NE Face three days later. This 1450m face lies to the left of the North Rib successfully signed by the Joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition of 1994. It is characterized by a long snow couloir leading to a difficult mixed section, above which the pair joined the North Rib and finished up this to the summit. The difficulties were deemed comparable with the North Face of Les Droites and the pair descended safely once more via the West Ridge.
Urkinmang was first climbed in 1964 via the South Face by a Japanese team from Osaka University after falling on their main objective. Langtang Lirung. It then had at least three known unauthorized ascents in the 70's via the NW Ridge, the West Ridge (Swiss in 1971) and the SW Ridge. The 1994 Japanese ascent was the fifth known.