한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Everest Turbo 1989

Everest · 1989 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

BC at road
C2 at left edge of Japanese Couloir
High point at C3 site.

Tried 4 times from ABC for summit bid but never above C2 because of some snow and a lot of wind. 2 members were in 2 attempts, other 3 members all 4 attempts, sometimes climbing with Jaccoux group. Pasang Gombu Sherpa carried loads to C2; he was shared with Jaccoux. Last attempt on 3-4 Oct. Gave up after this because enough time had been spent: had wanted to do Paris/summit/Paris in 2 weeks and had already spent months in mountains. Team experience was very good (had been able to go to 7800m so quickly and never below ABC without any problem).

Escoffier had no trouble going up when track was good. Sometimes problem descending in bad snow (motor nerves in brain damaged in motor accident 2 years ago).

Escoffier: did no real climbing to 7800m, moved with ski poles; had some trouble descending; "a little disappointed" but will come to Everest again but on Nepalese side.


Norbert Joos - 9 Aug 1989

Escoffier on Everest: attempting fastest trip Paris/Everest Summit/Paris.

Acclimatizing in special chamber in France (near Chamonix). His baggage taken into Nepal and China by Jaccoux.

"It won't work - I hope it doesn't."
"Just a show - not mountaineering."

  • 내부 원정 ID386
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER89311
  • 대장Eric Escoffier
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-N Ridge-N Face
  • 최고 도달고도7800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Eric EscoffierFranceLeader---
Frederic AnceyFranceClimber---
Michel Simon FauquetFranceClimber---
Christine JaninFranceExp Doctor---
Gerard PianchenaultFranceMember---
Stephane Charles Joseph SchaffterSwitzerlandClimber---
Pasang Gombu SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Escoffier, Eric · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1989 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199030303/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt-and-Acclimatization-Experiment · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·