원정 개요

BC at least same as '99 but little close to Mt Dhachem Khola
C1 at glacier at bottom of mountain's east side
High point at bottom of icewall on east side.

19 May Steinbichl and Oberlechner up from C1 to reach C2 site at 6000m but much snow falling (30 cm in 1/2 hour) and many avalanches. Avalanche carried them down 100m and Steinbichl lost gloves, but both men injured and waited to go back to C1 but the way was very dangerous. Had to cross slope where constant avalanching (got to C1 safely). Climb finished although waited in C1 but snow and fog continued. Stayed in C1 2 nights and then with no improvement in weather, down to BC 22 May. Route this year was an attempt to avoid an ice wall by climbing to its right to reach ridge running from summit southwards.