원정 개요

BC west of Kalapattar
C1 at bottom of West Face northwest of point 6186m
C2 at bottom of SE Ridge.

1 May [Buehler and Steck] down to Pheriche from west route to rest 2 days; back to C1 on 5 May. 6 May up West Face from start north of C1 to South Ridge at 6700m: left C1 on on 6 May at 2:15 am in nearly full moon and at 7:00-7:30 on ridge and biv at 6800m on South Ridge. Face 80 degrees in spots 55-60 degree ice in most parts: snow mixed pitches. Climbed in alpine style without fixing ropes. On top at 6:00 am on 7th May; down East Ridge to East Col which took long time to reach col with many crevasses. Left top 6:30 am and at col 1:30 pm without any fixed ropes, had to change him of descent several times. From col down via fixed ropes and flags left by Germans on normal route and return to own BC at 8:30 pm.

SE Face/Ridge ascent route: Slovak and Schild did normal route after Schlaeppi got sick and could not climb South Ridge with Schild. Schild then went to normal route with Slovak, who had intended to to this route only, but later. Left BC on 5 May to ABC above normal BC; 6 May at 1:00 am left camp for alpine-style attempt of normal route and reached 6350m on SE Face at 10:00 am and too much snow and abandoned attempt and down to normal BC. Normal route too dangerous from seracs.

Route on new route {Buehler and Steck]: up West Face to South Ridge to summit; down East Ridge to South Face/Ridge (normal route).