원정 개요

BC near Barun Pokhari
ABC just beyond and above glacier's junction
C1 at field of rock in Chago Glacier
C2 at wall right of rock
C3 at Makalu La
C4 on glacier just to North of NW Ridge.

Mixed climbing above C4 with difficult rock especially at about 8300m and mixed ice and rock above C4. Left C4 at 3:00 am made the route and on top at 5:40 pm. Left top 6:15 pm. Returned C4 10:00 pm, but no frostbite or other health problems (had headlamps).

Chileans - 21 May: Iranians never fixed any rope. Took bowls from Chileans tent, took Chilean's ice axe and maybe took other items from various teams.

Guy Cotter, New Zealand leader - 20 May: When Cotter returned to his tent at C2, he found Iranians inside and threw them out. Iranians then went into empty Austrian tent and stayed there. Iranians left large amount of rubbish around camps.

Summit Sherpas:
Lhakpa, Khumjung, 39, 1st 8000er (not 1990 Makalu summiter)
Lhakpa Ongyal, Tumlingtar, Makalu VDC-5, 35


Parvaneh Kazemi - 15 Feb 2015

The Iranian team did not summit according to a subsequent book written by Reza Zarei. [In Iran, they are credited with only reaching the fore-summit 8440m.]