원정 개요

BC at near New Zealand & Austrian camps
C1 at near New Zealand Camp
C2 at near New Zealand Camp
C3 at Makalu La
C4 on north side of NW Ridge.

12 May left C4 for top 4:00 am: Bascou, Gutierrez, Olivares and Stambuck with New Zealand team. Bascou to 8200m at 12:30 am foot of couloir when oxygen system problem and with clouds coming in knew he would be very slow, so waited at 8200m for teammates to summit and return. Others had arrived at bottom of couloir 9:45 am and took 3 hours to climb couloir to NW Ridge and from there to summit 1 hour more. Reached top at 1:55 pm shortly after Japanese-New Zealand team. 2 parties cooperated with fixed rope and Ozaki and Cotter more experienced at high altitude. Returned to C4 8:00 pm and 9:45 pm to sleep. This was the only summit team planned.