원정 개요

Lhotse Shar: 9:00-10:00 am very cloudy and wind above 6000m and difficult to see route and dangerous and afternoon. Every day snowfalling. 12 April move route to C4 at C3. 19 April up to C4 site but avalanche had taken away most of gem so down to C3. 22 April went again to C4 with new tent, etc., to 7500m in deep snow, steep, windy; deposited gear there and down to C3. 23 April to BC to rest. 27th up to C2, 28th to C3. 29th weather bad and waited to 30th to try go up but very deep new snow and face down and dangerous from avalanche and only 1/2 hour up, then to 6000m and down to BC and Lhotse Shar climb finished. Route wear SE Ridge. Then to Khumbu for Lhotse Main peak.

Um intends to return to Lhotse Shar and carry on his programme to climb all 8000m subsidiary peaks.

"Sherpas" to 7500m were:
Pasang Namgyal Sherpa
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
Ang Babu Sherpa, aka Jimba Zangbu, his name as a monk
Lhakpa Tamang