원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in West Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 at South Col
C5 at Lhotse Face.

So many camps at C2 took 1/2 hour to go from 1st one to the highest one. 1 May started up from South Col to 8250m site for C1 at first pinnacle and left loads. 2 May same. 3 May to BC because bad weather at high altitude. 10 May up from BC and 13 May arrived South Col C4. 14 May went up from C4 to fix 300m beyond C5 sites and return to Col. 15 May bad weather and all down to BC. 17 May up again and 19 May arrived Col. 20 and 21 May from South Col to C5 carrying equipment. Others followed up from BC for extending routes and going for top. 22 May finally C5 slept in by Bolotov, Vinogradski, Kouznetsov and Timofeev and they went to top on 23 May. From South Col route lay over snow and rock to C5 and no fixed rope required. Beyond C5 fixed 1400m over snow and much rock to top some of it 65-75 degrees; final rock steep 90 degrees "very difficult." Top actually big cornice. All summiters slept in BC the day after their summit successes. First summit party left C5 at 5:30 am were on summit at 3:00 pm and returned to C5 8:00 pm. Second party left C5 at 6:30 am, on top at 12:00 noon, returned to C4 4:00 pm. Third party left C5 at 6:30 am, on top at 11:00, returned to C4 at 3:00 pm.

Oxygen used by all summiters up from South Col (not in C4): all up from C4 to C5; not used sleeping in C5 on their way up. 1st summit party used it up from C5 to top, returning to C5 and sleeping in C5 in return from top; 2nd and 3rd parties used it up from C5 to top and down to C5 but not down from C5 to C4.