원정 개요

C2 in West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col
C5 on Lhotse West Face.

Were first people with Russia Lhotse team to reach col. 1 May down to BC and rest below BC with plan to go to C2 and C3 and summit Lhotse and traverse ridge with several diversions down West Face of Lhotse to South Col and up to Everest summit and down North Face illegally and return to Nepal side via Lha La. About 5 May returned BC and 6 May to C2. 7th May snowing so down to BC. Made 5 trips through Icefall but down because of snowfall.

Decided to change tactics and attempt Lhotse first and Everest second. From BC to C3 direct 6 hours 15 minutes on 20 May. Day after that went up to go to Lhotse top and reached 8000m and down to C3 because Moro started vomiting and lost strength so back to BC and again below BC to Deboche and Namche. Back for 3rd time to BC. 20 May BC to C2; 21st to C4 of Lhotse at 7900m and established this camp, ready to go Lhotse summit on 23rd. At 6:00 pm on 21st however, shouting by Zaluski (with Anna Czerwinska who saw fall by Pfisterer member Thomas Moore), so Moro immediately out to do rescue from 8000m vertically above Lhotse C3. Moro alone up to find that Moores, who was alive at 7:00 pm lying on back in deep snow which could avalanche onto C3 at any time. Moore said "leave me, don't tell mama"; had lost crampons and face bleeding. Moro climbed up with Moores on back to near bottom of couloir at 8200m and down Moro's C4, put Moores in Moro's tent, gave medicine and water. Next day Moro organized 2 Sherpas to carry down to BC. Moro stayed 2nd night in C4 to go Lhotse top from traverse to Everest. Reached 8200m and tired so down to BC while Denis went to Lhotse top. Denis on Lhotse top 23rd with other teams and down to BC same day.

No other teams would join Moro to rescue Moores because they said would lose their chance for summit if they did. Moro told Denis Urubko, his teammate, to stay in camp because of serious avalanche danger.


1 June 20O1 - Spanish Lhotse leader Cadiach said he joined Moro to go to help Moro rescue Moores.