원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse Face
C4 at Lhotse Face.

Um (Korean) left his tents at the C4's of this expedition and others used them and put up no tents of their own. Moores made summit bid as only one from this team: left C4 7:00 am in company of 2 Poles (Anna Czerwinska and Zaluski) and Anna's Sherpa. Moores on top 1:15 pm with Zaluski: fell at about 150m at about 8300m at bottom of couloir; Zaluski saw him fall (slipped because warm soft snow compacted on his crampon and they did not hold). When stopped falling, one crampon gone, sat there in shock and immobilized by lack of crampon. He had been told by Pfisterer to stay only one night at C4 and then descend but stopped on next day; pressed on despite no alternate experience. Moro and his teammate rescued him and Moro put him on his back (Moores weighted 50 kg) and brought him to C4. Moores was on oxygen when he fell; there is no information here about his health since he was evacuated to Bangkok; he was evacuated from BC 24 May.

Members left expedition as follows:
- Bagnulo left 8 May, had enough;
- Erazo left 21 May with tooth problem;
- Fulton left 5 May to join his girlfriend back home;
- Morton left 6 May, was a bit old and slow and decided the West Face
would be too much for him;
- Reynolds left 12 May, was not comfortable on mountain;
- Stevenson left 17 May, had enough after arrived at C2, no energy left.

Pfisterer went way up to 7700m in order to collect Moores and bring him down after rescue by Moro.

Sieger went to C4 but had to descend because of viral infection and Tonsing escorted him down from C3.

Vallejo had intended to climb Lhotse after Everest and was on this permit, but after he summited Everest with Spanish team, whose Everest permit he was also on, he made no attempt to summit Lhotse.


11 June 01 - Peter Walls, leader of another Lhotse team: Pfisterer's team had no Sherpas, no oxygen, even no cook at C2 and large number of inexperienced members so when one member, Thomas Moore fell, other expeditions had to rescue and care for him.