원정 개요

BC at Kangshung Glacier
ABC 1 hour behind BC
C1 just left of East Ridge
High point at left slope of East Ridge.

After on BC, 2 days recce and 16 April started climb on the left of intended ridge which had many hanging mushrooms and this seemed safe. Went 6800m up difficult vertical climbing rock initially. At 6800m no route above and no campsite; reached 6800m on 28 April. Were hanging mushrooms here too (Negi, Gautam Chand, Dharmshaktu, Pal and Nadre Sherpa in this effort). Retreated from this route and no camps made on it; bivs hit by avalanches, one hit on 24th and injured 2 men slightly. 27th again avalanches ripping tents and carried down occupied tent but no injury. On 28th returned to BC.

Abandoned first route completely and turned to East Ridge, 1st intended route. 30 April started climb to left of ridge and made C1 here 8 May and carried on route-making. Much climbing where had to traverse in small gullies, had to go up and down in bell rocky area; some places 40 degrees and required pitons every 2-3 meters for fixed rope. Reached 6900m in this line, but could not make site for C2 of about 7500m-7600m at snowline. Down to BC on 20 May immediately (Negi, Gautam Chand, Sherpa).

Weather turned bad and stayed bad with white-out above BC, even at BC briefly; sunny at BC sometimes. Never had a full day of good weather throughout expedition period; even transit camp hit by serious avalanche on 16 May.

Initially had 8 Sherpas to climb but 3 demanded more money and left expedition when Yadav refused to sign papers approving bonus.

Yadav wants to return in autumn 20O1.