원정 개요

BC at Rongbuk Glacier at northeast foot of Changtse
ABC on Rongbuk Glacier at southeast foot of Changtse
Biv at foot of North Face
Biv on North Face in slightly diagonal line from 1st biv
Biv at North Col
Biv at normal C2
Biv at normal intermediate camp.

1st ABC to last point yaks will reach on Rongbuk Glacier 2 days away from foot of North Col. 20th May after rest at BC from recce, moved up to ABC (5000m) and 21st to bivouac and 22nd to 2nd biv. Did not like Australian "white limbo" route directly up face because hanging seracs and snow after snowfall; it was blue ice covered by loose snow, so dangerous. So made 2nd biv up face on a slightly diagonal line to left of Australian route. 22nd was lot of rock fall above on face and had taken 14 hours reaching this biv. 23rd Zangrilli not feeling well and decided not safe (soft snow and rock fall) so traversed to North Col with falling items (Russian body, oxygen bottles and water bottles) in 7 hours. 24th Zangrilli down to normal ABC (not willing to amongst too many people) and slept in Dijmarescu's tent while Robertson went up normal route to normal C2 at 7800m and bived there. Robertson stayed at C2 for 3 nights because very strong wind. Developed bronchial problems, down to biv at 5200m on 27 May on normal route and 28 May to normal BC, where Zangrilli was waiting. 30 May and 31 May cleaned original ABC and last biv and down to Chinese BC on 31st.