원정 개요

BC at Tangmar, south-southwest of Barun Pokhari
ABC at high BC
Makalu high point at 7500m on North Face
Kangchungtse high point on a summit atop West Face.

After 13 Oct Collister and Griffin went up Makalu to point where route emerged above Makalu La (this season Makalu La was too dangerous and route taken went south of La and doubled back slightly, then onto North (or NE Face). About 15 Oct reached about same point as Collister and Jessop on 9 Oct. No accidents, etc. Abandoned it not so much because of wind, which there was but dangerous windslab.

Kangchungtse not attempted after 13 Oct.

Had no fixed camps at all, but did not leave tent at ABC's shelf from time to time. First went to ABC on 30 Aug while others up north-northeast of BC; this was acclimatization and recce - "everybody did something different." 1st 3 weeks spent looking around. Saunders and Sustad started from 6500m (well up Chago Glacier) on 1:00 am 26th Sept and reached 7600m at 8:00 pm, then went to Makalu La; had done new route on West Face of Kangchungtse; hoped to return to biv at 6500m but weather diverted them to Makalu La, where biv from 2:30 to 5:00 am of 28th without sleeping bag or other gear. Took whole day to get back to 6500m in very poor visibility and another day in 6000m, all in storm conditions.

Irvine and Jessop got to 6200m at start of SE Ridge of Makalu at same time Saunders and Sustad were on Kangchungtse (late Sept).

On normal route of Makalu, numerous times just below and to C3 at 7500m but never beyond by time S and W left BC on 13 Oct, worn out and discouraged. 4 left at Makalu but they were leaving BC on 20 Oct.