원정 개요

C4 at South Col.

3 times from BC to C2 or C3. On 2nd attempt only to C3 and down both times because of bad weather (1st time 1 or 2 May and 2nd time on 12-14 May). 3rd time arrived C2 19 May (skipped C1), to C3 20th, 21st to C4 for first time to occupy it. 21st May 10:00 pm 3 Sherpas, 9 members and 2 Sherpeas from Webster team up from C4 to reopen route from C4 to Balcony and returned C4 22nd at 1:30 am. 22nd March summit party left C4 9:30 pm (first 5 summiters) and second 5 summiters about same time but were a slower party (had been grouped together based on knowledge of their expedition). All reached summit who had started for top. 1st party on top 7:30 am, descended to C2 same day; of 2nd party Palden Giachho down to C2 with them and reached top at 8:00 am, not 9:05. Those in 2nd party stayed at C4 having been slow to get to C4 (1st party returned C4 11:00 am and on down while most of 2nd party return C4 about 4:00 pm).

23rd May at 8:30-9:00 am, next summiters left C4 and all on top about 5:15 am next day (Pasang Rinji had stayed at Col from 20 May). All down to C2 on 24th. Hillary Step very difficult with no snow covering it. Summit was not rounded but pointed, said Nga Temba on 26 May.

Oxygen:
One Sherpa Pasang Rinji, who stayed at C4 from 20th to 23rd May, used oxygen sleeping in C4 each night: 3 members Kothiyal, Sharma and Shekhawat, used oxygen climbing from C3 to C4; all summiters used oxygen in C4, from C4 to top and down to C4. Oxygen also used by sick BC kitchen boy Rai at BC down to Pheriche aid post.

Sherpa summiters:
Pasang Tendi, 25, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
Nga Temba, 50, Kharikhola, Everest X2 before, Makalu and Kangchenjunga
Lhakpa Nuru, 22, Sikli, Solukhumbu, 1st 8000er
Dendi, 28, Gudel VDC, Solukhumbu, 1st 8000er
Mingma Tshering, 21, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
Pasang Gelu, 37, Gudel VDC, Solukhumbu 1st 8000er
Pasang Rinji, 35, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er