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Makalu Expedition

Makalu · 1989 · 가을 (3) · Austria

원정 개요

BC at glacier's junction
C1 at Chago Glacier
C2 also Chago Glacier
High point on North Face.

Dacher and Studer to 6600m 11th Sept and pitched C1 but did not sleep there. Juan went to 6200m with Spanish (not Catalans) and also down to BC. Same day Zaugg and Schertler not feeling well and down to British BC. Zaugg and Studer on 13th to own BC and Juan up with Spanish to 6200m slept there. Then heavy snowfall and Juan down 14th. 16th Dacher and Studer, Zaugg and Schertler to 6200m and slept there (Spanish C1). 17th Dacher and Studer to 6600m while Zaugg and Schertler down to BC, where Juan still was and were joined on 18th by Dacher and Studer.

21st all 5 members up to C1 (Schertler, Juan, Zaugg, and Dacher and Studer) to C2. 22nd weather fog and a little snow so all down to BC. Zaugg made movies at 6400m before descending. 23rd Juan, Schertler and Zaugg left BC because snow conditions too difficult for their strength (Schertler went home while Juan and Zaugg to Thai beach).

Spanish asked Studer and Dacher to join forces and according to note from Studer up to 7000m on 25th and 26th to Makalu La and 27th to 8000m and turned back at 10:30 am in fog and down to BC same day. 60 hrs snowfall with nearly 1m at BC.

Studer left BC 30th Sept and flew home 7th Oct. Avalanches only few meters each side of camp at 6600m. Dacher remained with Spanish for his last chance on Makalu. After Studer left BC, Dacher went up to 7000m to retrieve gear and then left mountain. On 17th Oct, Dacher returned to KTM.

  • 내부 원정 ID379
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA89305
  • 대장Bruno Roth Zaugg
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Bruno Roth ZauggSwitzerlandLeader---
Michel DacherW GermanyClimber---
Johann JuanAustriaClimber---
Ernst SchertlerAustriaClimber---
Wilfried Josef StuderAustriaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021902/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·