원정 개요

C1 higher than normal because Icefall higher
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face (higher than last year)
C4 at South Col.

South Col 60% cleaner than 1999 in terms of rubbish left. People were conscious of pollution.

Summit team left C4 at 9:20 pm 22 May, early in order to get ahead of crowd and so had job of fixing ropes from South Summit to top. Arrived at South Summit 5:30 am and top at 7:18-7:25 am and back to C4 at 11:30 am. Benegas and 2 summit Sherpas to C2 at 4:00 pm; Allan, Sparks and 2 summit Sherpas stayed at C4 because tired and not sure of getting to C2 (did not want to stay in C3). 24th Benegas to BC and Allan and Sparks on 25th. Climb finished.

2 in summit party turned back at 8200m (Johnston) and 8300m (Geier) because became too tired from extra effort of climb on exposed rock since little snow on mountain.

Oxygen: on summit push members used it sleeping in C3 and to C4. Members and Sherpas in C4 to top and down to C4 sleeping in C4 again.

Sherpas:
Pemba Rinzi, 25/11/74, Kharikhola, Everest top 5/98, 5/99
Phanden, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu 5/90, 9/2000
Went down to C4 with Johnston and then back up and summited
Pemba Gyalzen, Kharikhola, Everest 5/2000, Cho Oyu 5/99, 9/2000
Pemba Rinchhen/Rinzi, Kharikhola, 24, 1st 8000er