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C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Going through Icefall at 5:30 am, Rippel almost got killed by suddenly shattering seracs 100m wide 4-5m thick, 4m tall. It completely ruined trail; it was frightening; felt like earthquake beneath the feet. Even at 5:30 am weather was warm about 22 May. Rippel burned out on 14 May and turned around at yellow band; had no Sherpa for himself and carried all his own loads.

Sampson went down to BC to rest and left BC on 18 May with Pemba Dorje: 19 and 20 May in C2 and 21st to C3, 22nd to C4 and left C4 10:00 pm 22 May for top and go to top just at 7:00 am 23rd. Indian Army already on top at this time, having put in ropes above South Summit with Ben Webster's Sherpas. Returned to C4 10:30 am and on down to C2 at 7:00 pm and slept in C2. BC next day.