원정 개요

BC at high BC site (glacier's junction)
C1 at plateau of Chago Glacier
C2 on northwest side below Makalu La
C3 at 1 hour above Makalu La
High point on North Face

Tried to go to summit from C4 four times. 1st on 27th Sept to 8000m; then 3 Oct (but could not reach Makalu because of wind slab danger following big snowfall after 27 Sept); 8 Oct when got to 7900m; and 15 Oct to 8100m in good weather but still dangerous from windslab and deep snow. On 15th one man fell into crevasse and were many avalanches; also was very cold: on 8 Oct was -35 degrees near 7900m in 100 kph wind so very cold fingers and toes. Before 15th Oct attempt had decided this was the last one with little time left and much effort spent. All except one had at least 2 nights in C3.

Pierre Beghin came to this expedition's C3 in descent, unable to talk very coherently in his exhaustion; he spent night in their tent.

Michel Dacher climbed in 1st and 3rd attempt with this team; 3rd time one American with them.

This team was first to arrive and fix ropes, which others used.