원정 개요

BC at high BC
C1 at Chago Glacier
C2 below Makalu La
C3 above Makalu La on North Face
High point on North Face.

Main problem was wind from east dumping snow over S Face on to N Face. 1st summit bid from C3 28th Sept and 2nd on 8th Oct. 1st reached 8000m and 2nd 7800m but wind slab avalanche danger turned them back. Both bids made by Valles; 1st with 4 Spanish members of other team and 2nd with 2 members of other Spanish team.

15 Oct 3 remaining members to C1. 17 Oct Larma and Zamarbide to C2 and 19 Oct to about C3 (but camp not there) so bived. 20 Oct biv slightly higher still looking for camp. Much wind and cold (Larma frostbitten thumb) and no tent or biv sack so impossible to cook in wind. Down on 21 Oct. Left BC 27th Oct.