원정 개요

BC at high BC site at glacier's junction
C1 at 6200m at Chago Glacier
High point on North Face.

Went to 7000m about 27th but down and back again by Frank and Jackson, bived there and down next day in snowstorm. Austiguy and Thorburn reached Makalu La on 4th where bived on windy night in exposed place and down next day. Frank and Jackson on 6th up to 7000m for summit bid but wind drove down next day.

Johnson and Collister of British team to C3 on 11th or 12th; they got to 7600m and Collister reached 7000m and down to 20th because of wind and slight illness. Now porters coming and climbers tired.

Johnson and Collister went together to 7500m, where Catalans had their C3, on 14 Oct afternoon. 3 Catalans and their Sherpa went up to C3 same time. On 15th Johnson left C3 at 2:30 am, Catalans left at 3:00 am (they had talked of climbing together). Johnson followed North Ridge to 8100m, part way up the Kukuczka step - step was developing slab rock with bad snow on it. He tried 3 ways to get up it but snow was not safe any way he tried: "I had a gut feeling I was in a bad place" and turned back at 7:30-8:00 am. He was alone as Catalans and he had taken different lines above C3 and 30 minutes before he turned back one of Catalans fell into a crevasse and that discouraged them in knee-deep snow and they turned back at about 7900m. Collister got out of tent later in morning because his feeet were cold, followed Catalans, met them at 7700m and they told him of snow problems.