원정 개요

BC at normal site
ABC at "yak camp" on ridge
C1 on SW Ridge
C2 at normal site on pinnacle
High point at C2.

Were only people on mountain when Aussies got to C2. Interested to summit from C2 on 13 April but that day 9-inch snowfall all kept them in C2. Next day 14 April even more snowfall and that night fierce thunderstorm which was frightening, "perched on small pinnacle on a little ridge," as Schroeder put it. Fairchild and Schroeder were always intended to be the summit climbers and others supporting them. Now weather still looking bad and time running out, so down on 15th in difficult snow conditions (total 1-1/2 ft fell) to C1, where crawled into Spanish tent while our tent left at C2. BC on 16th where waited 17th and 18th to C1 to clear equipment and snowed all day: difficult here in boulder field covered with snow.